Double-Breasted Hooded Sweatshirt
I made this little double-breasted button up sweatshirt for the Lil Luxe Sew ‘n Style contest I entered last month and I wanted to share with you how I made it, as well as a free 18 month pattern. I knew I wanted to make this coat for the contest, but my deadline was quickly approaching, so I turned to Mel of Purpleseamstress Fabric for some red sweatshirt fleece. I knew if she had some, I would have it in my hands within days. Luckily she did have some, and two days later it was at my door. She has magic shipping I tell ya.
I made a different version with some striped French terry from Girl Charlee. With the red version I used the same sweatshirt fleece for the facing and left the hood unlined. For the striped version I used a cotton lycra for the facing and also for the hood lining.
So let’s get started!
What You Need:
About 1/2 yard of sweatshirt fleece or French terry
About 1/4 yard of material for facing and hood lining
Print your pattern pieces; make sure you print at 100%. Check the 1″ x 1″ square on the first page of the pattern to make sure it printed correctly.
Assemble your pattern pieces by cutting around the border and lining up your triangles.
All seam allowances are 3/8″ unless otherwise noted.
Use a stretch stitch such as a zig zag or one of the other stretch stitches your machine offers.
To start, lay your two front pieces over your back piece with right sides together. Pin at the shoulders and sew together.
Open up your jacket with right sides up.
Place one of your sleeves, right side down, with the center lined up with the shoulder seam. Pin at the center.
Next, Pin where the corner of your sleeve meets the end of the arm opening, and then up about 1″ to 2″. You should now have some excess sleeve fabric.
Starting at the center pin, fold about 3/8″ of fabric back on itself and pin.
Fold again, until there is no excess fabric and it is smooth.
Continue pinning your sleeve and then repeat on the opposite side of the sleeve.
Once your sleeve is pinned, sew it on. When you get to the pins at the center, sew as close to the pins as possible before pulling them out. Repeat for the other sleeve.
Lay your jacket flat, with right sides together, and sew from the end of the sleeve to the end of your jacket. Repeat on the other side.
Now we will work on our hood. Lay your two hood pieces flat with right sides together and sew along the outside edge.
Fold the outer edges of your hood to the inside 1/4″ and press.
Now fold over 1″ and press
Take your lining pieces and sew together the same way you did the main hood pieces. Lay the lining inside the main hood with wrong sides together. Make sure that your lining is pushed back and seams are lined up in the middle. Your lining will overlap your main hood, so just trim it so that it lines up with the edge of the main hood.
Tuck your lining into the fold of the main hood and sew close to the inside edge of the fold along the hood.
You will end up with some overlap of the lining on the bottom and a little tail on the ends, just trim everything so that it is straight across.
This is what your hood should look like when you are done.
Now pin the center of the hood to the back center of the jacket.
Continue to pin the hood until it reaches from one side to the other side of the jacket. Leave 1/4″ of the jacket edge showing on each side. Sew your hood onto your jacket. Trim the seam allowance.
Now take your facing pieces and fold the long curved edge over 1/8″ to 1/4″ and press and then another 1/8″ to 1/4″ and press. Sew along the edge.
Do the same for the short end.
With right sides together, pin your facing along your jacket. The top edge should line up with the shoulder seam on the opposite side. Sew along the hood, down the side and along the bottom. (My curved edge isn’t finished in this photo because I forgot that step with the first side, so just pretend it is)
Trim your seam, fold right side out, and press so that you can’t see the facing from the front.
Line up the top short edge along the shoulder seam and with the seam open, stitch the facing to the seam.
To finish, fold up your hem 1/4″ and press and then another 1″ and press, folding the lining inside as you do so. Pin your hem in place.
Starting at one end of your jacket, top stitch around your hem, up one side of the jacket, around the hood, back down the other side of the jacket and finish the hem.
For the button holes, start with the top button closest to the edge. On the right side of the jacket (if you were wearing it), Measure about 1/2″ down from the hood seam, this is where you will start your button hold. Place your button on the jacket so that it is about 1/8″ inside your topstitching and the center of your button is where you will want to mark where your button hole will come down.
Then, for the other top button, I place it right along the edge of where my facing ends, but you can put it closer if you would like. Measure the same distance down and mark your button hole.
Next, I line up the bottom buttons directly in line below the top buttons and start the top of that button hole 1″ below where my upper button hole ended.
Overlap your jacket sides with the buttonholes on top and so that your hood seams line up, and stripes if your fabric has them. Starting with the button on the top closest to the edge, place it so that it is just inside of your topstitching, and in the center of your button hole. Sew in place.
Now, button the button you just sewed on and mark your next hole by drawing a small circle through the center of the button hole with a fabric pencil. Sew this button on, and continue this process for the next two buttons.
The last step is to fold your sleeves up 1″ and press, and then sew.
If you have any questions, feel free to email me at sewalittleseam.com.
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